French seams are something I never really did until I made the Date Night Dress, which called for them. I always figured it was just an extra step I didn’t want to make. The end result however is worth it!
What is a French Seam?
I french seam is a double seam where all the raw edges are enclosed. It is great for shear materials where you may be able to see the seam. It is also is a little more durable than a standard seam. It is just another great tool to add to your sewing tool belt for finishing seams!
How to sew a French Seam
First lay wrong sides together, then stitch using 1/4″.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/8″ then press to one side.
Turn rights sides together and press the seam so it is nice and straight.
Sew using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam to one side. Your done! Easy, beautifully finished seams!
Sewing a French Seam When the Pattern Doesn’t Say To
You can still sew french seams even if the pattern doesn’t say to. You may need to adjust the seam allowance a bit. If the pattern calls for 1/2″ seam allowance, you won’t need to do anything. If it calls for 5/8″ seam allowance, sew the first seam 1/4″ and the second seam 3/8″. If it calls for any other seam allowance, add 1/4″ to it. Sew the first seam 1/4″ and the second seam whatever the seam allowance is. French seams work the best with lightweight-medium weight fabric. Heavy weight fabric may create bulky seams.
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