There are two main ways to finish woven neck holes. With facings or with bias tape. We will talk about facings today, and bias tape tomorrow!
Facings are one way to finish a neck hole without making an entire lining for a garment. A facing is a small piece of fabric thats cut in the shape of the hole it is to finish.
So how do we get the best results when sewing a facing? Cut out the facing. Some patterns will call for it to be interfaced, others may not. First you will want to finish the bottom edge of the facing since it won’t be sewn into anything and you don’t want it to fray. Now stitch your facing right sides together with the bodice. Lining up the shoulder seams and front centers. When you are stitching the two pieces together, make sure the shoulder seams are laying flat. If they get stitched over wrong, it may effect the way the facing lays.
Now that the facing is stitched to the bodice we need to clip the curves. To to this simply make snips perpendicular to the seam line without snipping into the stitching. This will allow the curve to lay nicely.
Press the facing and seam allowance out away from the garment.
Now to make your facing lay nicely we need to understitch. Understitching is pretty much sewing the facing to the seam allowance very closely. Sew on the facing as close to the seam as possible (usually around 1/16-1/8″) making sure to catch the seam allowance.
After you are done understitching, press the facing to the inside of your garment.
**Note: for the picture I used a contrasting fabric so you could see the difference. Normally facings will be a mute, neutral color, since we don’t want to notice the facing when wearing the garment! I also did not finish the bottom or interface the facing since this is just a sample to show you the basic steps. For a real garment you will for sure finish the bottom.
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