Now that your skirt pieces are all cut out, we can move on to sewing the back of version one!
When I designed this pattern, I had denim in mind. I never thought I would make anything with denim because it seemed too hard and look handmade. But then I realized it really is not hard at all! Topstitching thread is one big way to make a denim handmade item not look handmade. If you are making The Button Up Pencil skirt in denim, I would highly recommend topstitching thread. It is thicker and yields great results. You will want a denim needle that has an eye that is big enough to make threading the topstitching thread easy. I like to use a 12-14 denim needle. If you are using a fabric that is patterned you wouldn’t really have to use topstitching thread as the detail shifts from the thread to the pattern of the fabric. All in all, it is up to you how you sew your beautiful skirt!! In this tutorial for Version 1 I did use topstitching thread.
Sew yoke to back, right sides together, matching up notches.
In the above picture, you can see that the center edge of yoke will hang over skirt center, but will match up when you press the seam.
The above picture shows the seam pressed, the yoke lines up nicely.
Serge the seam allowance without trimming fabric.
Press down toward hem.
Switch to topstitching thread if desired and stitch 1/8” (.3cm) away from seam and then again 1/4” (.6cm) from first topstitching line.
Repeat steps 1-3 for opposite side.
Serge (without trimming any fabric) the back center seam of the right skirt back piece.
Press top of back pocket down 1/4” (.6cm) and then 1” (2.5cm).
With topstitching thread, working from right side, stitch 7/8” (2.25cm) from edge.
Topstitch again 1/8” (.3cm) above first topstitching line.
Finish raw edges of pocket without trimming any fabric off.
Press remaining edges of back pockets 1/2” (1.25cm) to the wrong side.
Hammer edges of the corners to make it easier to sew onto skirt.
Pin back pockets to back skirt pieces using placement lines included in the pattern.
You can use pins, wonder tape, or plain old scotch tape to keep pockets in place.
Using tailor’s chalk, draw lines from corners to show you where to pivot.
Above is how it should look before stitching pockets into place.
With topstitching thread stitch pockets to skirt 1/8” (.3cm) away from edge.
Topstitch again 1/4” (.6cm) from first topstitching line.
To get the decorative slanted inner stitch shown above, start stitching horizontally from the first stitching line then slant it down. To get the slant to be even, count the number of stitches and use that same number when you come to the next slant!!
Place the back skirt pieces right sides together with the left skirt back on top of the right skirt back.
Shift left skirt back 1/4” (.6cm) to the right and pin in place.
**This will give the illusion that the back seam is centered once topstitching is done.**
Making sure to align the yoke topstitching!
The serging should be 1/4″ making it an easy guide to go off of!
Using regular thread, stitch back pieces together using the back right piece as the 1/2” (1.25cm) seam allowance guide.
Press seam allowance toward left back skirt piece (as you wear it, right in illustration), covering the shorter seam allowance.
Using topstitching thread, topstitch 1/8” (.3cm) away from edge on the left back leg. Topstitch again 1/4” (.6cm) away from first topstitching line.
After your back is assembled you will want to baste the waistline to prevent any stretching.
Your back is now assembled! You are ready to move on to the next step!
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