Now that we have sewn up a muslin and gotten the right fit, we are ready to cut into our good fabric! Make sure to wash, dry, and iron your fabric before cutting out. You want to make sure all the wrinkles are gone when cutting the pieces out.
First make sure the selvaged edges line up nicely. Make sure to smooth out your fabric so it lays perfectly flat. Sometimes fabric is slightly off grain. If you find when you line up your selvages your fabric isn’t laying nice and flat, it is most likely because it is off grain a smidgen. You will want to cut in single layers if this happens.
Next lay your pattern pieces on your fabric. The best way I have found to make sure you are cutting on grain is to lay a ruler perpendicular with the grainline mark on the pattern piece and make sure it lines up with the selvage edge. Check that it is even with the grainline the whole way down the pattern piece.
Before cutting I would recommend laying all your pattern pieces out to ensure the best use of the fabric and to make sure they all fit! Depending on how wide you fabric is, you may be able to lay both skirt front and back side by side, otherwise one will have to go below. If sewing version one note the skirt front will be cut the entire way around the pattern. Version two will be cut on the fold, but will have a different line (marked on the pattern piece) than the pattern edge.
When all your pattern pieces are cut out, it is time to make markings and notches. You can use tracing paper to mark where the pocket placement will go, but I have found it hard to see on denim depending on what kind of tracing paper you use. I like to pin the pattern to the fabric and fold along the lines marked pocket piece. Draw a line where the fold it. Unfold and fold the next line until your pocket is formed. I found this works on the button holes as well!
For all versions mark the notches on the waistband. For Version one mark the notch on the yoke and skirt back. For Version two mark the placket stop notch on the skirt front.
After you are done marking notches you can interface the button plackets. I recommend a lightweight non-stretch fusible interfacing for the plackets. Cut two interfacing pieces and apply to both plackets for version one. For version two, cut two interfacings and apply it to only two of the plackets.
If you choose to interface one waistband piece, use a lightweight stretch interfacing. If you choose not to interface the waistband, you will apply four small rectangles of interfacing where the button and button hole will go in later steps.
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