Yesterday we covered how to assemble version one placket. Today we will cover how to assemble version two’s placket!
Version Two placket is a little more difficult to assemble than version one, but once you have one under your belt the next ones will be a breeze!
You will want to start by interfacing the wrong side (following the package directions) of two of your plackets with a woven lightweight interfacing.
Next, using the notch marking on your pattern as a stopping guide, cut a straight vertical line down the center of the skirt front.
.With right sides together, sew one interfaced placket to one non-interfaced placket.
Trim seam alllowance to 1/8”.
Press inner edge of interfaced placket to the wrong side by 1/2” (1.25cm).
Repeat for other side making sure they mirror each other.
Turn both plackets right side out (wrong sides together) and press well along seam line. Make sure to maintain pressed edge. Notice in the above picture how there is 1/2″ of non interfaced placket showing.
Working from the wrong side of skirt pin, then sew, right side of unfolded edge of placket to the wrong side of the skirt slit until you reach the end of the slit.
Sew a couple more stitches past end of slit. Repeat process for other placket.
See above for a good visual of the slit end and the stitching end.
Once both plackets are sewn to skirt, connect the parallel stitch lines by sewing across skirt, beneath the end of the slit.
Clip corners at a 45 degree angle on the rectangle you created. Make sure to not clip the stitching.
Trim seam allowance to 1/8” (excluding the triangle formed by clipping into the corners.)
Flip the plackets to the right side of the skirt (pictured above I only flipped the left placket (as worn, right in picture) to start with.
The fold of the placket should just cover the previous stitch lines. Edge stitch down the fold of the placket on the left side of the skirt. Stop stitching when you reach the end of the slit opening.
Trim excess fabric below the stitching leaving about 1/4” ON THE LEFT PLACKET ONLY.
Flip the right placket to the right side of the skirt. Notice how it is much longer than the left placket now.
It can be kind of tricky to get the back of the placket to not have raw edges. I wanted to include these pictures quick to show you how to avoid raw edges on the back of the placket.
The above picture is taken from the FRONT of the skirt. When you trim the excess fabric from the left placket you will want to leave about 1/4″ past the stitching line. Don’t trim it right at the stitching line or the raw edges of the left placket will show on the inside of the skirt.
The first picture shows the plackets completely opened up. When you open both you will notice the bottom edged are folded over the the opening creating a clean edge at the opening.
When you fold the left placket back to the center the right placket will have half of the placket under the left placket. Fold the right placket back over the left placket and continue from there.
Before sewing right placket, lay it on top of the left placket and fold the bottom under making sure to maintain the folds from the previous step.
Make sure the right placket completely covers left placket then press and pin in place.
If placket is thick, press and steam well, then hammer to help reduce bulk.
The picture above shows another view of how the placket should lay.
The above picture shows how the right placket should look pinned in place.
Start by sewing the square you just created in place just above the bottom of the slit in the skirt.
Sew across the placket then edge stitch down and around the square and back up the placket to the top of the skirt, taking care to not catch left placket in stitching.
(Open the placket up once you get past the rectangle).
This is how it should look once both placket are sewn!
This is how the inside of the skirt should look once plackets are sewn. Notice no raw edges!
Don’t forget to use #buttonuppencil when sharing on social media. Catch up on all the sew along posts here.