We are about done!! Yesterday we talked about buttons and button holes! Today we will cover assembling the waistband. I also put together a video for installing the waistband which is at the end of this post.
Once you have sewn your plackets and attached the back and side seams you are ready to sew on your waistband! The waistband is attached the same for both version one and two. I am sewing version one in this tutorial but the steps are the same for version two!
When you cut out your waistband you should have made two notches (three total when unfolded). A notch at center back (right on the fold) and a notch to match up to the side seams. You will begin by matching the center back notch to the center back seam. Next match up the next notch to the side seams. Both notches should be on the bottom edge (the longer edge).
Pin the waistband to the skirt right sides together gently stretching the waistband to ease in place.
If you wish to interface, use a stretch interfacing. If interfacing the waistband, attach the interfaced waistband in this step. Since we are using a medium- heavier weight interfacing isn’t necessary, but if you do decide to interface it must be a stretch interfacing.
Since the waistband is contoured it is a little more difficult to attach than a straight waistband. Notice how the waistband angles down from the waistline, that is how it is supposed to be.
To attach the waistband I recommend pinning often! Once your notch and side seam are lined up gently pull down on the back of the skirt so the skirt curves to match the waistband. Pin around the curve gently stretching the waistband to ease into the skirt waistline.
Notice how the skirt bunches at the side seams, that is normal and ok. Just make sure there is not bunching in the seam allowance as shown in the second picture.
When you reach the end make sure there is atleast 1/2″ over hang. If there is more feel free to trim the excess down to 1/2″.
Start sewing the waistband to the skirt. Take your time and go slow making sure there is not bunching under the seam allowance. When you get to the curve simpley adjust the skirt so it is laying flat. Feel the seam allowance for any bunching and continue sewing carefully. I recommend sewing with a basting stitch the first time to make sure you like how it is attached. Basting is easier to rip out than normal stitching :).
Once your waistband is attached flip is up and look for any bunching. If there isn’t any go ahead and press the seam allowance up toward the waistband.
Take our your lining waistband piece and press the bottom edge up 1/2″ toward the wrong side. I like to run a basting stitch using 1/2″ seam allowance to make pressing easier. Around the curve there may be bunching in the seam allowance but that is ok as long as there no bunching on the right side.
Pin the waistband lining piece right sides together with the original waistband. Take care to line up the curves in the same spot.
Notice how you have an overhang.
Start sewing as close to the skirt placket as possible without catching the placket in your stitching. Sew straight up and around the entire waistband using 1/2″ seam allowance.
When you are done, clip the corners and trim the seam allowance down to about 1/4″. Attach two small rectangles of interfacing where the button and button hole will go.
Flip it around and add another two rectangles of interfacing to the back side.
Flip the waistband so the wrong sides are together. The folded edge should just cover the stitching line. Press well and pin waistband in place.
You will want to place the pins on the outside of the waistband.
Starting at the front edge stitch the waistband. I like to feel for the inside edge of the waistband as I stitch to make sure it is catching. Every now and then stop and flip the waistband over to make sure your stitching is catching the folded edge of the lining waistband.
Continue stitching the entire waistband if desired. Congratulations you finished your waistband!!
I put together a video on attaching the waistband for everyone who would prefer a video vs. a tutorial:
Don’t forget to use #buttonuppencil when sharing on social media. Catch up on all the sew along posts here.