Just when I thought the Chi-Town Chino’s couldn’t get any better…..they DID! If you remember, I recently wrote a post on a modified version of the Chi-Town Chinos. Recently Alina sent out an email for testers for an expansion pack to the original Chi-Town’s. Guess what it included?!?! You guessed it! Knee length Chino’s! Along with the knee length addition, she also has a second expansion pack for pants! Contain your excitement please ;). Along with the added length, she also added welt pockets to the mix! I was super excited to be chosen to test for her! We had a great group of girls and had some great discussions on fitting pants! The expansion pack isn’t released yet, she plans to release September 26th, but I wanted to share mine to get you excited! Sign up for her newsletter so you can be notified and get a discount when they are released!
The expansion pack includes the new welt pocket pieces and the pattern pieces for the shorts and pants. From there, you will need to refer to the original Chi-Town Chino’s for the instructions and additional pattern pieces like the fly, pocket facings, front pocket bag, etc. The pants version is the same as the original Chi-Towns only lengthen obviously. The shorts version has a different crotch curve. They are also drafted to be more fitted than the original shorts. The pants are semi-fitted and tapered with the same crotch curve as the original pattern.
The welt pockets are such a great addition to the pattern and I am very excited about them! The instructions yield a clean and polished look. The utilize the french seam method to leave a very clean finish with no raw edges exposed. I am a pretty boring pocket person, I like just a standard patch pocket, but since I tested the pattern, the welt pockets needed tested. I am so glad I tested out the welt pockets, because I may now be a non-boring pocket convert ;). When I make the pants version, I know I am going to choose the welt pockets again!
Onto the fitting. My waist we slightly out of a size 10 and my hips were at the large side of size 10. For the first muslin I did, I went with size 10 and the legs ended up being waaaaay to big on me. I had to take them in quite a bit. Alina suggested sewing up a size 8 and doing a FSA. I ended up also doing a thin thigh adjustment on the size 8 as well, just not near as much. Fitting pants is quite the process!! It is worth it to take the time to make muslins though, because once you get the fit right, you don’t every have to mess with it again! And having a custom fit to you and all the work it entails totally is worth it because it blows ready to wear completely out of the water. Have I ever mentioned I love sewing?!? 🙂
The fabric I used was a non-stretch twill from style maker fabrics. I bought two different twills when I set out to make my first pair. Summer was busy and I never cut into this fabric. That was absolutely perfect because I got to sew up the expansion pack in it!
Since doing a FSA The darts ended up being longer than they originally were and the pocket placement line was all messed up. To refigure the pocket line, I measured on the original pattern the distance from the top of the pants to the pocket line. I then marked that on the center of my new dart. Next I measured the pocket line width, divided in half. I marked each side of the dart the halved amount and slightly tilted it to resemble the original placement. Draw a line between the points and bam, you have your new pocket placement!
As with the original Chi-Towns, I love all the little details that go into making these shorts. I again chose to do a bias binding on the waistband facing. I also added a fun mint zipper to match my mint bike pocket bags! I love the little touches no one else sees. As my husband would say, all business on the outside, party on the inside! (He likes crazy socks).
Pattern: Chi-Town Chino Expansion Pack No. 1 by Alina Sewing and Design Co.
Size Sewn: 8
Measurements: Waist: 29″, Hips: 40″.
Modifications: Did a FSA and a thin thigh adjustment.
Fabric: Charcoal Twill from Style Maker Fabrics
Cost: $16.50 for the twill. I had the zipper and quilting cotton on hand from wallet making.
Pant fitting recourses:
–Full Seat or Flat Seat Adjustment by By Hand London
–Lengthening or Shortening the Crotch by By Hand London
–Basic Fitting by Closet Case Files
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